
• Périple •
Bogotá > Villa de Leyva > El Cocuy > San Gil > Riohacha > Cabo de la Vela > Punta Gallinas > Palomino > Cartagena > Bogotá > Neiva > Bogotá
• Intro •
La Colombie était très certainement l’un des pays qu’on attendait le moins par méconnaissance et par mauvais aprioris. Mais il nous a finalement épaté chaque jour par sa diversité !
Nous devions y passer 2 semaines, qui se sont finalement transformées en 1 mois, c’est vous dire !
En Colombie, tout est possible ! On peut passer en quelques heures de 10°C à 30°C, de la montagne à la plage, de paysages totalement désertiques à une jungle très dense…
Nous y avons découvert des paysages époustouflants et une population, encore une fois, adorable et toujours prête à nous aider.
La Colombie c’est aussi l’art et la musique, présents à tous les coins de rues. Poussée à pleine puissance dans un bar à l’angle d’une rue ou taguée sur la devanture d’une auberge de jeunesse.
Bref, vous l’aurez compris, la Colombie a fini par nous séduire et c’est ici que nous allons essayer de vous transmettre ce qu’elle nous a apporté 🙂
• Dormir •
Rien de plus simple en Colombie que de trouver où se loger ! Entre hôtels, auberges de jeunesse, Airbnb, j’en passe et des meilleurs, impossible de ne pas trouver chaussure à son pied !
De notre côté, nous avons surtout opté pour la solution auberges de jeunesse, qui est la plus économique (#pasdebudget.com !).
Nous réservions souvent le jour pour le lendemain (sur Airbnb, Hostel World ou Booking) ou le jour même une fois arrivés sur le lieu où nous souhaitions séjourner.
Les auberges et les hôtels sont partout ! Même dans le plus petit village traversé en bus, il est possible de trouver où se loger !
• Se déplacer •
Là encore, les solutions sont multiples entre avion, taxis, voiture, bus…
Mais les distances sont longues à parcourir en Colombie ! Nous ne nous en étions pas rendus compte avant d’être sur place mais 200km en Colombie ne se font pas en 2/3h comme en France. En fonction d’où vous souhaitez aller, cela peut prendre jusqu’à 9h si vous ne passez que par des routes de montagnes !
Le plus économique reste le bus. Il existe de grands terminaux dans chaque ville/village où toutes les compagnies de bus sont concentrées, et où il est possible de prendre un bus à n’importe quelle heure de la journée.
Nous avons fait plusieurs compagnies en 1 mois, et même si aucune d’entre elles ne proposent de service « Premium » tous les bus restent assez conforts (pour de courts trajets, moins pour les longs).
Pour les plus longues distances, l’avion est une bonne solution. Il permet de gagner du temps et avec un peu de chance, vous pourrez trouver des billets à des prix intéressants.
C’est ce que nous avons fait pour relier Carthagène à Bogotá. Nous avons réussi à nous en sortir pour 105€ pour deux, avec nos deux bagages en soute. Au lieu de passer 24h dans un bus, nous n’avons passer qu’une qu’1h30 dans l’avion en ne dépensant que 30€ de plus !
Louer une voiture peut être intéressant à condition d’être d’accord pour passer beaucoup de temps sur les routes (la Colombie étant un vaste pays) et de s’habituer à la conduite des Colombiens et à leur routes toutes défoncées 😀
• Sécurité •
Le mantra a retenir lorsqu’on voyage en Colombie est le suivant : No da la papaya (ne montre pas la papaye) ! C’est ce que tous les locaux ne cessaient de nous répéter !
Ce qui signifie littéralement : ne montre pas tes richesses si tu ne veux pas qu’on te les vole !
Si vous suivez cette règle, il ne vous arrivera normalement rien (en tout cas ça a fonctionné pour nous..!).
Comme dans tous pays ou toutes villes, certains quartiers sont à fortement éviter, tandis que certains autres sont tout à faire sécure ! Renseignez-vous à l’avance.
Durant notre périple, il nous est arrivé de nous sentir en insécurité (surtout dans les grandes villes) mais en ne sortant pas avec nos téléphones ou nos appareils photos dans la main tout se passait très bien.
• A voir, à faire •
Il y a mille choses à voir et à faire en Colombie et on peut facilement être occupés pendant de nombreux mois !
Il nous a été très difficile de faire un choix et nous n’avons pas tout vu, mais voici ce nous pouvons recommander en nous basant sur notre parcours :
Villa de Leyva
Si vous aimez passer du temps dans les villes, rendez-vous à Villa de Leyla au Nord-Est de Bogotá.
C’est l’architecture de cette ville ainsi que ses rues pavées qui lui donne son charme. On y mange bien et il est très agréable de se balader dans ses ruelles !
En revanche, les alentours ne sont pas des plus fournis en activités. Quelques cascades sont à voir mais 2 nuits sur place seront largement suffisantes.
El Cocuy
Perché à 3600m d’altitude, El Cocuy est un adorable village aux portes d’un paysage montagneux à couper le souffle !
Nous y avons séjourné 3 jours et 2 nuits. Le programme? Rando, rando et rando. Il n’y a pas grand chose d’autre à faire en même temps !
Nous dormions dans une Hacienda au pied de notre première rando que nous avons fait le lendemain de notre arrivée.
Point de vigilance : il fait très froid dans ces haciendas ! Dans notre chambre, le thermomètre ne montait pas à plus de 11°C la nuit…! Il ne faut pas oublier son duvet et ses grosses chaussettes !!
Malgré ça, cela reste un très bon souvenir. Les paysages y sont magnifiques et les randos sont vraiment agréables.
La Guajira
C’est très certainement notre gros coup de coeur de Colombie.
La Guajira est la région située au nord-est du pays, bordée par la mer des Caraïbes. Il y fait beau et chaud et c’est là-bas qu’il est possible de découvrir le désert de la Guajira qui se jette directement dans l’eau bleutée.
Nous avions pris le parti de réserver les transports sur 2 jours pour nous rendre à Cabo de la Vela (le plus grand village de ce désert) et Punta Gallinas (un petit village à la pointe).
Nous avons été émerveillé par ce que nous avons découvert ! D’une part, il s’agissait de notre tout premier désert et d’autre part, celui-ci et tout à fait incroyable et… désertique, car très peu habité et très isolé.
Les photos parleront d’elles-même pour vous transmettre les émotions qui ont pu nous traversé en découvrant ces paysages à couper le souffle !
Palomino
Palomino était à la base une simple petite pause d’une journée avant de nous rendre à Carthagène.
Notre journée s’est finalement transformée en 4 jours..!
Ce village très touristique n’avait pas les critères pour nous plaire de prime abord et pourtant… Nous avons aimé flâner dans ses ruelles, apprendre à jouer au Tejo, y déguster des spécialités colombiennes dans ses petits restaurants et passer du temps à se détendre, tout simplement !
C’est aussi à Palomino que nous avons pu découvrir un village Indien après 1h30 de marche dans la jungle avoisinante. Moment incroyable à pouvoir échanger quelques mots avec les membres de la tribu … et découvrir leur mode de vie incroyable. Nous avions fini cette journée par 2h de tubing dans la rivière traversant la jungle et rejoignant Palomino (je ne m’attarde pas sur le fait que c’est ce jour là que j’ai malencontreusement égaré la GoPro dans cette même rivière… Hum-hum…).
Le parc Tayrona
Très réputé dans tout le pays, le parc Tayrona permet de se rendre dans les plus belles plages qu’il est possible de trouver sur la côte Caraïbes.
Nous y avons passé une journée, à beaucoup marcher pour nous rendre jusqu’à Pueblito, les vestiges d’un ancien village indien. Pour être tout à fait honnête, passez votre chemin pour cette étape si vous ne souhaitez rester qu’une journée comme nous. Profitez plutôt des chemins pour observer les animaux et des plages pour vous rafraîchir ! Le chemin pour se rendre à Pueblito est long et fastidieux et la récompense est assez minime.
En revanche, les plages sont à tomber, bien qu’elles soient rapidement prises d’assaut par les nombreux touristes !
Carthagène
Ah la belle Carthagène… Nous avons adoré parcourir les rues de cette ville magnifique ! Encore un endroit, pour nous, incontournable de la Colombie.
Nous nous sommes régalés à observer son architecture coloniale très colorée, ses tags qui recouvrent les murs du quartier Getsamini et à marcher le long des remparts qui bordent la ville !
Un conseil si vous souhaitez vous y rendre, favorisez un hôtel avec piscine si votre budget le permet, la chaleur y est caniculaire (nous rentrions toutes les 15 min dans les magasins pour nous scotcher sous la climatisation !).
Le désert de la Tatacoa
Dernière visite un peu inattendue de notre mois passé en Colombie. Et quelle bonne surprise !
Le parc de la Tatacoa représente une grande étendue désertique près de Neiva, la capitale de la région de Huila. Nous y avons découvert 2 déserts : le désert gris et le rouge. Tous deux très différents, nous avons pu les parcourir en randonnant avec un guide (on peut également le faire seul).
C’est aussi là-bas que nous avons pu observer le plus beau ciel étoilé qu’il nous ait été donné de voir !
Le désert étant très éloigné des villes et villages, la nuit y est complètement noire, parfait pour l’observation des astres !
A faire aussi : les thermes, très présents autour de Neiva qui sont un pur bonheur pour le corps après la chaleur du désert !
• Conclusion •
Ne vous fiez pas à la mauvaise image de la Colombie (drogue, insécurité, etc…).
Bien qu’il est nécessaire d’être vigilant dans ce pays (comme dans beaucoup d’autres en Amérique du Sud), la Colombie possède une richesse incroyable !
Il est possible de voir toutes sortes de paysages dans ce pays, il y en a pour tous les goûts !
Après 1 mois, il nous reste encore tellement à découvrir, et c’est clairement un pays dans lequel il serait très intéressant de revenir, notamment pour découvrir la côte Pacifique, que nous n’avons pas eu le temps de faire, ainsi que la partie Amazonienne !
La Colombie nous a émerveillé et on ne peut que vous recommander fortement d’y aller, que vous soyez plutôt villes, montagnes, plages ou que sais-je, vous trouverez forcément ce que vous recherchez dans ce pays !
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